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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, situated high among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks the family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small shop securing such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.